Leah Chapman
Founder of Issue Twelve
What does sustainability mean to you?
For me sustainability is about ensuring there has been no negative impact on the environment, animals, and people. The term is thrown around quite easily, and has become a bit of a buzzword. It’s very difficult to be completely sustainable, especially when making new product. At Issue Twelve we focus on creating products that are made to last with classic shapes and great quality. I believe in buying less and better. Transparency is also really important to us; sharing the journey of the product with our customers from origin of fiber to factory.
How do your thoughts on sustainability influence what you purchase (particularly in regards to your wardrobe)?
I purchase very little and when I do I purchase well. I like objects with a background, whether that's knowing a bit about the journey of it being made, or whether it’s vintage. I spend a lot of time scrolling through first dibs. Exceptional quality of materials and responsible practices are central to the ethos of Issue Twelve and I look for this in other brands and any purchases I make.
What measures do you try to take, both professionally and personally, to be more sustainable?
I’ve always been a very considered shopper. I rarely buy anything new and if I do it’s always an investment piece which will last a lifetime. I have this approach to my wardrobe, furniture, art work etc. My taste and aesthetic is very minimal, I don’t over clutter my life with objects, but the pieces I own mean something to me. Not only is that a better way to live more sustainably without an attachment to consumer culture, but it also creates a calmer mind and environment.
I started Issue Twelve because I could not find pieces that I wanted to wear…I know, an over-used statement, but it’s true. I used to look at care labels of garments and find it mixed with polyester which bothered me, especially at certain price points. I wanted to find classic shapes that last forever, beautiful quality made from natural materials, at a more contemporary price point.
This led me on a path with Issue Twelve where I wanted to explore and research as much as I could, the pathway of my future collections. As a result the majority of the collection is made in London, fostering relationships with local producers and expert makers while minimising carbon footprint.
The majority of fabrics, yarns and trims are sourced using a range of natural and certified fibers, processed in low-impact mills, favouring family run businesses which value the environment, social responsibility and craftsmanship.
I also decided not to follow seasonal trends and produce new pieces for ‘newness’ sake. Core styles remain in the collection and repeat with minor variations, leaving more time to be spent on the sourcing of the best sustainable materials and practices. This is an important and ongoing process, with constant learning on how to improve the business to ensure as little negative impact is had.
In your opinion, what changes can be made in the world of fashion towards becoming a more transparent and sustainable industry?
Either customers demand change and companies follow those values, or large companies and brands have to understand the responsibility there is now when supplying a product, to ensure there are practices in place that lessen the effect they have on the natural world. I think the latter would be better, but there’s risk involved for businesses - do the customers really care enough for a higher price tag? This is why I think education is such an enormous part of it. The right education can help customers value the history of the product, or value the material and composition. We need to put value back into a product, be this a jumper or chair, and to celebrate this as something beautifully crafted as opposed to a ‘throw-away’.
The system as it stands is not set up to make it easy for individuals and brands to make the best choices, it is set up to make the fastest, cheapest and most profitable choices. For example, we try to source organic and recycled materials, but we’re making really limited numbers. As the system currently stands, if you want organic silk you have to order a really large amount of it. We’re not in a position to do this yet and so at the moment the more sustainable option for us is actually to choose non-organic silk.
“To shift the industry onto a more sustainable and transparent path requires a shift in mindset to value the planet and its people over profit, and legislative change to help it move forwards”
Photographed by Alex Bramall
Styled by @nataliewj - all clothing @issuetwelve
Hair @christoskallaniotis
Make-up @adelesanderson
Lighting Director @mfurlonger
Digital Technician @bobjamesself
Set and props @joshstovell
Shot at @drop__studios